The Broken Linear Model vs The Regenerative Model

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Hi, I'm tze Ching - brand strategist, creative thinker, and curious disruptor. 
I created The Better Brand Lab to share ideas and tools for building impactful, future-fit fashion brands. 
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When I first started my sustainable fashion brand almost two decades ago, I had a singular vision: to change the world through my designs. I was passionate about creating beautiful products that not only represented style but also environmental consciousness. At first, it felt like I was on the right path, a path that would lead to a more sustainable and ethical fashion industry. But as I dove deeper into the realities of the industry, I quickly realized that the problem was much bigger than just my designs. It wasn’t enough to create a product that was better for the planet; the entire system had to change. That’s when I began to understand that the solution was not just about using organic textiles or promoting ethical manufacturing, but about rethinking the entire approach to fashion itself.

The fashion industry has operated on a linear model for decades, one based on Take, Make, Dispose. It’s a cycle of overconsumption that drives the industry’s growth, yet it is inherently unsustainable. The linear model pushes us to produce more, sell more, and, ultimately, discard more. And with that cycle comes tremendous waste: 92 million tonnes of textile waste produced globally every year, much of it ending up in landfills or incinerators.

As designers, we’re trained to create products that consumers want to buy — but if we’re not thinking about the end of life of these garments, we’re contributing to a wasteful system. The constant drive to generate sales leads to overproduction and increased waste, contributing to 10% of global carbon emissions and the depletion of natural resources. 

This was one of the realisations that led to me stopping the production of my brand because the more we were producing, the more waste we were also creating. I did not want to be part of the problem. Over the years, I tried everything to make my brand more sustainable — from using organic textiles to incorporating recycled materials, as well as using pre- and post-consumer waste. I utilised zero-waste design techniques to reduce production waste and encouraged customers to repair their garments rather than buy new ones. But despite these efforts, the impact I was able to make was small. Consumers were not quite ready to take on the “inconveniences” of paying a fair price for our products and those who did, did not take on the “inconvenience” of mending or extending their garments, despite it being a free service that we offered to our customer.  That’s when I realized the problem wasn’t just in the materials I was using, but in the system itself.

Fast fashion, with its rapid turnover of trends and cheap production, designed for quick obsolescence, has created a system where the environment and people pay the price.

The depletion of resources, the use of harmful chemicals, and the exploitation of people in low-wage countries create a damaging system that most fashion brands, until today, continue to produce, sell and consume within.

So, what if there was another way? What if fashion didn’t just take — but gave back? What if our designs were not only beautiful but restorative to the planet, to society, and to the future?

This is where the regenerative model comes into play. It’s a model based on Circularity — where fashion isn’t about making products that simply last for a season and then end up in a landfill. It’s about designing for longevity, repairability, and recyclability. It’s about creating systems where garments are made with care, with the intention that they can be reused, repaired, or recycled at the end of their life.

A regenerative model focuses on reducing waste and restoring natural resources. Instead of following the traditional take-make-dispose route, it embraces a close-the-loop approach, where materials are either returned to nature or reincorporated into the production process. 

In addition to the growing demand for sustainable and circular practices from consumers, the EU is making it clear that change is not optional — it’s required. The latest EU regulations on sustainability and circular economy, including the EU Green Deal and the Circular Economy Action Plan, impose stricter standards for brands regarding waste management, recycling, and product lifecycle. These regulations mandate that fashion brands move toward reducing waste, recycling materials, and improving the longevity of their products.

By 2025, all brands selling in the EU will need to adhere to new rules aimed at minimizing product waste, ensuring that their products are made with more sustainable materials, and fostering recycling. This includes rules around product repairability, recyclability, and extending the lifespan of garments, as well as stricter reporting requirements for environmental impact. For brands that haven’t embraced circularity, these shifts could mean major compliance costs and business disruptions.

But here’s the good news: implementing circularity from the start of your brand’s journey makes it far easier to align with these legal shifts. When you’re still in the process of designing your products, you have the opportunity to build circular practices right into your brand DNA. Designing for longevity, using recyclable or upcycled materials, and planning for the end-of-life of your products are all easier when you start with these principles in mind.

On the other hand, larger, established brands are facing immense challenges as they try to retrofit their existing processes. For many of these companies, adopting circular practices is not just a matter of redesigning products — it requires a complete overhaul of their supply chain, production methods, and waste management systems. This transition is costly, time-consuming, and often involves significant disruption to their operations. The longer a brand has been in operation and the more couples their supply chain, the harder and more costly this transition will be. 

For startup brands, this is a huge advantage. By starting your brand with a regenerative mindset, you are positioning yourself ahead of the curve, not just legally, but also in terms of market demand. Circularity isn’t just a choice anymore; it’s a competitive advantage. The brands that embrace it now will be the leaders of tomorrow.

As a founder, the shift to a regenerative fashion model is not just an opportunity to build a business that is better for the planet but also an opportunity to future-proof your brand and meet the growing demand for products that align with values of sustainability, equity, and regeneration. 

According to research, 66% of global consumers are willing to pay more for sustainable products, and 73% are willing to change their habits to reduce their environmental impact. This is a huge opportunity for you to build a brand that not only meets the demands of today’s conscious consumers but sets you up for long-term success.

This means that by embracing circular principles by improving efficiency, and creating closed-loop systems, you’ll not only create a more resilient brand but also a more profitable one.

At the time of me writing this, it has just been announced that Vinted, the second hand fashion platform, has just become the #1 fashion retailer in France, ranking above fast fashion giants like Zara, H&M and even Shein. The fashion landscape is definitely shifting. 

In an ideal dream world, the fashion industry would no longer rely on the depletion of resources and/or the exploitation of people to survive. Instead, it would be fully circular and regenerative. It would be an industry built on sustainability and long-term growth, not quick profits. Call me an optimist or perhaps even delusional, but I believe that in the next 10–15 years, the fashion industry can and will undergo this transformation. What do you think?

The fact is, no matter what you believe, circularity isn’t just a trend anymore and no longer a choice. It’s an imperative — both from a business perspective and a planetary one. 

It is time to make a shift, however small, towards positive change, one visionary brand at a time. Are you joining us? 

Take a moment to reflect on your brand’s current practices:

How much waste are you generating? 

Are your materials sourced sustainably? 

Are you designing with the end of your product’s life in mind? 

Think about what small step you can take today to shift toward a more regenerative model. 

Note that even small actions are better than no action at all.

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