I thought when I started my brand, back in 2007, that choosing the right textiles and production methods was enough. Organic cotton? Check. Recycled materials? Check. Zero-waste patterns? Check. But the more I tried to build a truly sustainable business, the more I realised this: a truly circular fashion brand doesn’t begin with fabric. It begins with mindset, not only by the designer but also by the consumer. Every person who is part of the garment’s journey has a role to play in whether the garment is circular or not. 

What is Circular Design — and Why It’s Not Just About Products

Circular design means designing for a continuous life cycle — where nothing is wasted and everything is valued. This involves not just choosing “eco” materials but thinking critically about the product’s entire journey: where it comes from, how it’s made, how it’s worn, how it’s maintained, and what happens when it’s no longer wanted.

I always tell new designers, recycling should be the last resort. Start by using what already exists. Then think about how you can make something last longer — through quality craftsmanship and thoughtful design. If you’re not offering mending and alteration services, at least make sure it is easily done, by for example, adding extra hem length and spare patches. Only then, consider end-of-life strategies like upcycling or recycling.

This way of thinking goes far beyond aesthetics. It’s a lifestyle, a system, and a lens through which you view the entire fashion ecosystem. I haven’t bought any brand-new clothes in over seven years — and I see that as a creative choice, not a restriction. A way to live my values and stay curious about how clothing can be transformed rather than tossed.

A Brief History of Circular Fashion Thinking

While “circular fashion” may seem like a recent buzzword, its roots run deep. Long before fast fashion, most clothing followed a kind of circular logic: clothes were made to last, mended, handed down, and repurposed. It wasn’t revolutionary — it was normal.

The modern circular fashion movement re-emerged in the early 2010s alongside concepts like Cradle to Cradle (McDonough & Braungart), The Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Circular Economy framework, and the zero-waste design philosophy championed by creatives like Timo Rissanen and Holly McQuillan. These pioneers challenged the throwaway culture and sparked a new design era — one where fashion regenerates rather than depletes.

The Core Circular Principles Every Designer Should Know

Whether you’re designing a new collection or refining your brand concept, here are the core circular design principles to embed from the start:

1. Design for Longevity
   Prioritise quality construction, timeless silhouettes, and durable materials that can withstand wear and trends. Think less about seasons and more about seasons of life.
   
2. Design for Versatility
   A single garment that can be styled multiple ways will always offer more value. Build flexibility and function into your design.
   
3. Design for Disassembly
   Can the garment be taken apart easily at the end of its life? Avoid mixing fibres or complex finishes that make recycling nearly impossible.
   
4. Design for Repair and Alteration
   Make it easy for the customer to care for and adapt their garment. Use visible stitching, modular design, and offer repair services where possible. I once offered free mending to my customers — and it strengthened our community as much as it preserved our garments.
   
5. Design from Waste
   Use pre-consumer or post-consumer waste as raw material. Upcycling, deadstock sourcing, and reworking vintage pieces are all forms of this.
   
6. Design for Regeneration
   Think beyond zero waste. How does your work help restore ecosystems, support biodiversity, or elevate craft communities?
   

But What If I’m Just Starting Out?

Many early-stage designers ask, “But what if I don’t have access to the ‘right’ materials or I’m only producing in small batches?” You’re not alone. Most startups struggle with sourcing, low MOQs, and limited influence on suppliers.

But this is where creativity thrives.

Some of the most exciting brands today started with what they had: scraps, discarded inventory, deadstock. Others developed services instead of products — rental, resale, subscription, or take-back schemes — creating circular business models that work because they’re small and nimble.

The other big question? “How do I keep selling if customers don’t need to buy new from me all the time?”

This is where mindset truly matters. You have to move beyond the idea that success = selling more. Innovate business models, services, and brand experiences that invite customers into a deeper relationship. Find ways to deliver value beyond the product. (We’ll explore this more deeply in the Commercialisation chapter.)

Facts You Can’t Ignore

• The average consumer throws away 60% of clothing within the first year of ownership. (Source: McKinsey)
  
• Less than 1% of textiles are recycled into new garments. (Ellen MacArthur Foundation)
  
• A circular business model can reduce clothing’s carbon footprint by up to 39%. (Circular Fashion Report, Fashion for Good, 2022)
  
• Brands that embed circularity from the start are 3x more likely to attract long-term investors. (Accenture Sustainability Report, 2023)
  

These numbers aren’t just alarming —they’re calls to action.

Why Circular Thinking Makes You a Better Designer—Even in a Linear World

Here’s the truth: we’re still operating in a deeply linear industry. Waste is baked into every layer — from supply chains to marketing to how people shop. But when you train yourself to think circularly, you start seeing the system’s cracks not as barriers but as opportunities to innovate.

A circular mindset forces you to ask better questions: How can I use what already exists?

How do I create more value with less?

What happens to this product when I’m done with it?

These aren’t just sustainability questions —they’re design questions. Business questions. Leadership questions.

Designers with a circular mindset become stronger problem solvers because they’re not just designing products —they’re rethinking systems. They become more resourceful, more empathetic, and more future-ready. And in a world where everyone’s talking about disruption, it’s the circular thinkers who are actually doing it.

How Circular Is Your Mindset Right Now?

Take a moment to pause and reflect. These questions aren’t just about what you know — they’re about how you think, create, and lead as a fashion entrepreneur:

1. Do I currently consider the full life cycle of every product I create — from sourcing to end-of-life?
   
2. Am I prioritising durability, versatility, and repairability in my design process — or am I still designing for trends and turnover?
   
3. How easy would it be for my customers to alter, mend, or reuse my products?
   
4. Am I designing from existing materials, waste, or surplus where possible — or defaulting to “new” out of habit?
   
5. Do I build services or support around my products (like mending, take-back, or styling) to extend their lifespan?
   
6. What kind of emotional or functional value does my product offer, beyond being ‘sustainable’?
   
7. Where am I still thinking linearly — in my mindset, my sourcing, my storytelling, or my sales strategy?
   
8. What circular design principles am I already applying well? Where do I still need to improve?
   
9. If I couldn’t sell any new products next season, how could I still generate value for my customers — and revenue for my business?
   
10. What’s one small but meaningful shift I can make this week to design (or think) more circularly?
    

Please feel free to get in touch if you’d like to improve on the circular strategies that your brand currently has, and we can see how we can help: hello (at) wedisruptagency.com.